I'm going to provide a spoiler for this story by saying that it has a happy ending - well, in a way. I wanted to preface the story with a reference that it has a somewhat positive ending because as you might guess by the title this isn't a happy post. This entry highlights one of the reasons why I lost a lot of respect for the school administration for which I work and just added the fuel to the fire of why I am eagerly counting down the days until I leave Korea.

This story is about my after school classes which I've talked a lot about my on this blog. They will be some of the best memories from my time in Korea and I've really enjoyed the opportunity to get to know some of my students better. Of course, I do not do these classes for free - they're extremely time intensive and I try to incorporate a few hands on activities which require purchasing some materials. The story itself is a bit long because it involves explaining some of the intricacies of working in a Korean school.

Last fall I was approached by my handler (a fellow English teacher who is paid a set amount monthly by the board of ed for "helping" me). He asked me if I was interested in teaching 40 hours of after school classes and I jumped at the chance. I was told that I would be paid 30,000 won an hour per class. This is more than the 25,000 won minimum specified in my contract and I stated as such - telling him that it was too much. He brushed off my protests and told me that was what Korean teachers are paid. This was confirmed by my predecessor - he also had been paid the same amount as the Korean teachers and therefore I took my co-teacher at his word and believed that I would be paid 30,000 won per hour. Since I knew I would be purchasing a lot of materials out of pocket I asked my co-teacher if the school had a budget for the after school class. A few hours later he came to me and told me that after discussing it with the vice-principal the school would pay for 100,000 won worth of materials as long as I supplied receipts. I agreed and immediately started planning my lessons taking into account the 100,000 as well as the extra money I would be receiving hourly (nearly 200,000 won).

I think the lessons I planned went over well - the boys got to carve jack o' lanterns (a first for them) and had the opportunity to try food from all over the world including a proper Indian meal for the Indian holiday of Diwali. The students created posters for speeches and we even had a cooking lesson during one of our classes. Our final lesson was a Christmas party complete with food (some of which was prepared by the boys at the party), sweets and an ice cream cake. Since I have 16 students in my class and I had to find and buy a lot of common and unusual ingredients (orange pumpkins, international food, markers, etc)  it probably won't surprise any one that I easily spent 300,000 on everything and I was happy to do so because the students really enjoyed the classes.

Unfortunately by the end of the semester I hadn't been able to fulfill the full 40 hours of classes - I only taught 32. Part of this was because I didn't start teaching at the school until a month into the semester due to my previous contract and also because of miscommunications. I didn't realize that I could add additional days to our class schedule or extend class periods in order to meet the 40 hours. Korean co-workers aren't known for being forthcoming about all the details necessary for the native English teacher to competently do one's job - and I neglected to ask the correct questions. 

In mid- December I turned in my receipts to be reimbursed for the materials I purchased  and a few weeks later I turned in my attendance sheet. My co-workers asked me to fabricate some of the dates to fill out the hours so it would show a full 40 hours because it would be "too difficult" and "too much paperwork" to pay me for fewer hours. I flat out refused - the school receives money from the public and I didn't want to be part of taking money which should help educate students.

At this point I went on my month long trip and didn't return to school until February. When I returned I was asked again adjust my attendance sheet - I was assured I would not be paid extra but it was necessary for paperwork. I finally agreed and found myself having to change it multiple times to suit the needs of whomever is in charge of paying out the teachers (by the end of the saga though I have never met the man I strongly dislike him - it sounds like he fudges a lot of paperwork because "it's too difficult" to do do it correctly). I began to check my bank account to see when I was paid and finally noted that I had been paid for my teaching hours but not reimbursed for the materials. I approached my handler about this issue and he made a few calls and claimed that the amount I had been paid actually included the reimbursed money. From here there was a lot of discussion and a lot of frustration. I'll save you the blow by blow but the end decision was that I had been paid too much - I would only receive 25,000 won an hour (per my contract) and so the amount I had been paid included my hourly wage and the reimbursed money as well as a bit extra. My school would kindly ignore the extra and not require me to pay them back. It was explained to me that it was "not possible" to pay the possible 30,000 won because my contract only allowed for the 25,000 hourly pay. This simply isn't true, as I explained before my predecessor was paid the same hourly wage as the Korean teachers for 2 years though his contract also stated a smaller amount.  I was somewhat incredulous at this stance since I had been very honest and upfront about my hourly wage and told him that the school should stand by its word and I wouldn't believe anything they said in the future.

I guess the discussion regarding my payment was on-going - I'm sure everyone in the school knew about this somewhat private concern because there is a lack of privacy in Korean schools and my co-workers enjoy gossiping. They speak openly about me in the office in Korean while I sit at my desk (it's one of the reasons I am thankful I don't speak much Korean, I suspect I'd truly dislike some of my co-workers if I knew what they were saying). In the end they told me they stood by their original assessment - I had been over-paid. The entire experience really soured me on the school - I went out of my way to create a integrative educational experience with a lot of original material while the Korean teachers just read from a book during their classes and not only did I feel it was not acknowledged by the school I felt disrespected.

I didn't let this sway me from teaching after school classes again for the second semester - I just reminded myself I was doing it for the students and planned out plenty of hands on activities for them dipping in my own pocket for the supplies. So far we've dyed Easter eggs, enjoyed food from around the world, had a night dedicated to cooking and we're currently making pinatas. My reward was when after sports day every single one of my students came to my night class and they told me how their friends said they pitied them for having to attend the class but they didn't mind because they loved my class. It really warmed my heart to hear that and reminded me why I shouldn't regret staying a second year. But this isn't the "happy ending".

For a few weeks the issue was completely disregarded until one day at lunch one of my co-workers handed me an envelope. She explained that the English teachers felt bad that the school refused to pay me the proper amount and it was known that I had spent a lot of extra time and money on the students. The teachers conferred and decided get together and give me the 100,000 won difference, each one giving a set amount. I was extremely touched by this action and so I baked cookies and distributed them to the 5 English teachers to thank them for trying to right the wrong that the school had done.

I'm still disappointed with my school and the fact that the administration didn't keep it's word. However, I continue to remind myself that I what is important is that I have a good relationship with my students - I enjoy teaching them and they enjoy my classes. I leave in just 3 months and then I can put this issue and many others that I've encountered here in Korea behind me. While I'll be sad to leave my students in August I am very much looking forward to leaving Korea. It is definitely time for me to go home.

This year November 8th was the probably the most important day of the year for a 3rd year high school student in Korea. It was the day when the students would take the incredibly important SATs of which their score would help determine exactly which college they would attending in March.

The test is taken quite seriously within the country - students who run late typically have police escorts to the test centers and some parents will spend the day praying outside those centers for their child to receive high marks on the test.

There's a lot I don't quite understand about the Korean education system but the more I learn about it the more I appreciate the American education system. Awhile back President Obama praised the Korean education system and on paper I agree the system looks great - Korean students regularly have outstanding test scores. However, if you work in the system it quickly becomes apparent that the system is seriously flawed and there's little I would consider suitable for the USA.

I realized that I've been referencing a new school and apartment without announcing that I decided to stay another year. My decision came down to many factors most of which dealt with the current economic situation in the United States in addition to the financial benefits of teaching in Korea for another year. These reasons combined with the desire to travel throughout Southeast Asia next winter during break helped me make the decision.

Sadly, I've felt frequently since returning from the USA in June that I made the wrong decision. If you noticed none of the reasons I decided to stay were because I enjoy my life in Korea or that I am particularly happy here. As I discussed briefly in a previous post Korea and I are a bad match - my personality and Korean culture clash in the most basic of ways and this became even more abundantly clear when I returned to Korea after a brief trip home and again after visiting Japan - both places where I felt happy once again.

These things combined with a lack of social support both here and from those back in the US has resulted in extreme feelings of isolation and most likely, a seemingly nasty case of culture shock where I'm stuck in stage 2 - withdrawal or more appropriate in my case - anger and animosity. It's something on which I need to work, I joined a gym a few months ago to help manage my stress levels which seems to help in addition to doing a lot of cooking at home.

Even though I had doubts before I signed the renewal contract it seemed unfair to leave Korea after just one year. I felt perhaps I might have a better experience here if I was in a different school situation. Therefore, I signed on for another year but at a different school - this time a semi-private boys middle and high school in the local village of Hamchang. I'll remain in Jeomchon and take a 5 minute bus ride to the school each day. I spoke at length with the previous native English teacher and he spoke highly of his students and co-workers at the school. From the sounds of it I might have a more pleasant experience there simply because the rude and disrespectful behavior which is frequently the norm at my current school is not tolerated at the new school. I met two of the students while I moved and was extremely impressed with their pleasant demeanor as well as their spoken English. If the other students are even half as nice I think I'll be quite happy at my new school.

The move though is bittersweet - there are a few students at my current school who are kind-hearted and a joy to teach as well as the wonderful students of Gaeun High School and Yeongsoon Elementary school. I don't particularly enjoy teaching young children (and I'm rather awful at it) but I like my students there and I think we have a good time in class. Gaeun students are a joy to teach and the fact that they smile when I come into class is an incredible contrast to the attitude of many of my students at MTHS. Saying good-bye to those students will be difficult however I could not foresee a positive year for myself if I stayed. I simply hope that their new native English teacher will find inspiration where I found frustration and will rise up to the challenge of teaching at MTHS.

I seldom comment on opinion pieces or articles that I read online because I try to accept that everyone approaches things from his (or her) own perspective from which we can learn - if at the very least helping us readdress (and possible reaffirm) our own thoughts on a subject. However, it is rare that I read something with which I so strongly disagree and feel that the author's egregious and outlandish claims are so utterly and completely un-based as I did while reading an article written by a Georgetown student on why a college student should not study abroad. You can read her article in its entirety here and I will discuss her main points below.

It would be disingenuous of me if I didn't provide some context on my own background so you, the reader, can understand from where I approach this issue. In cultural anthropology this is called self-reflexivity which is an important aspect within the discipline where the anthropologist acknowledges her own thoughts, experiences and biases. This is done in order to give the reader a better idea from where she is coming and therefore the reader can determine for himself the validity of what the anthropologist is saying. People who know me know that I am a strong proponent of studying abroad.  I personally chose my liberal arts college based in part on it's study abroad program and spent my junior year abroad through a program organized by the school. I also participated in two intensive summer field study programs while in graduate school. In addition to having studied abroad I have been employed abroad in 2 different countries and have traveled as a tourist in many others. Also while in graduate school I worked for the study abroad department within the Center for International Programs over the course of three summers (and with the international department within the same center during two academic school years). With these personal experiences and from what I've learned from my work within the Center for International Programs I continually to strongly advocate for American students (or anyone) to study abroad.

Here are Ms. Cleary's "5 Reasons College Students Should Not Study Abroad". I will list them all together, please click "read more" to read the points addressed individually.

1)  You probably will not get a better education overseas.
2)  It's Expensive
3)  You can step out of your comfort zone in your college town.
4)  Now is not the only time in your life you can travel or live abroad.
5)  You miss out.

My first international flight was from Chicago to Schipol Airport outside of Amsterdam. If I remember correctly I flew British Airlines which provided it's passengers with a hot meal, an inflight magazine and movie and a thick blanket which accompanied a small pillow. I can't really remember any other details from the flight so overall it was probably a pretty average experience.

Flash forward nearly 15 years and I've flown round trip to Europe 3 times and to Asia on 5 separate occasions in addition to the flights I've flown throughout the United States, Mexico and in and around Europe and Asia. I've flown numerous airlines including Southwest, Continental, Air Canada, Swiss Air, KLM, American, Asiana, United, JAL, ANA, Singapore, Vietnam Airlines, and Air Malaysia. Out of all those airlines (and the few I've probably forgotten) none of them have worst service on the ground or in the air than United.

I can't remember my first flight with United but I do distinctly remember my flight in 2009 from O'Hare to LAX where I was meeting up with the rest of my class so we could depart on an ethnographic field study in Vietnam. The plane for my 7am flight had mechanical difficulties and was delayed by two hours which led me to question whether I would be able to make my flight in L.A. I asked an United representative on the ground what the procedure would be if I would miss said flight so I could call and notify my professors and she was incredibly rude to me. Based on that experience and the overall unpleasantness of the flight attendants and ground staff I swore never to fly United again.

When I moved to Korea I spent over $100 extra on a one way ticket in order to avoid taking United and instead took advantage of flying with the extremely efficient and pleasant people of Asiana. However when I was booking my tickets back to the U.S. which required a tight schedule and budget my travel agent recommended United and I decided to give the airline a second chance.

My first impression of this recent flight was that United's trans-Pacific (and probably trans-Atlantic) planes hadn't been updated since the 90's. Unlike recent flights with Asiana, Singapore Airlines or JAL my seat lacked the individual TV screen or entertainment center (you can watch a selection of movies at your discretion, play video games or even hook up your own electronics to enjoy your personal selection of movies and music). It seems like a minor complaint but when these items are the norm on international flights with other airlines and you're paying $1500 to sit in a seat for 12 hours - well an entertained passenger typically makes a distracted and therefore more pleasant and satisfied passenger.

However, the lack of entertainment amenities could easily be ignored if United offered top-notch service. Sadly United's customer relations has been by far the worst I've ever experienced on any airline. The flight attendants are unpleasant, snarky and even times incredibly rude to passengers. They neglect to realize that a smile and pleasant tone of voice go a long way with weary travelers many who, like myself, don't particularly care to fly. Instead their surly demeanor just help passengers feel every minute of that 11-13 hour flight. The ground crew, especially in Chicago, is equally awful. When I was recently at the self check-in terminus in United's area I received no further instructions after my boarding pass printed out which left me to wonder do I take my luggage to a designated person like I did in Incheon or does someone come to me. I politely asked a woman behind the counter who was grooming herself and her dismissive response was followed by grumbling under her breathe for my apparent intrusion on her "personal" time. If you're standing in front of an United counter you are not on personal time - you are the face of the company you represent.

While not all United employees are as rude as the aforementioned woman even their "friendly" and "pleasant" flight attendants are actually mediocre when compared to the service of Asiana, Singapore or even Vietnam airlines (yes, Vietnam, a country with its tumultuous past which has been playing catch with the Western world and it's neighbors to the East in terms of  modernization has an airline whose service puts United to shame).

I realize that working with the public can be a difficult job and people take out their annoyances and frustrations on those around them - specifically those people that the customer views as "serving" them. I am not blind to how many of my peers on flights disregard flight attendants instructions and have bad attitudes. I also understand that a flight attendant's primary duty is to ensure that passengers get to their destination safely and it's an important job that most take seriously. However, what the people working for United seem to not understand is that a pleasant smile and positive attitude can not only placate a surly passenger but also encourage polite and respectful passengers, like myself, to continue to patronize their business.

I plan on flying quite a bit over the next year - to Japan, China, Hong Kong, throughout South east Asia and in the fall of 2013 back to the U.S.A. and I will not consider United for any of those flights or any others in the future. Perhaps if more people are willing to pay a few extra dollars for a better flight experience the people at United will realize their deplorable customer service is effecting their bottom line and they will change their way of doing business.